by Janie Chadwick
by Janie Chadwick
July |
|
2008 |
Hi everyone,
When you think of July, you generally think of backyard
barbeques, fireworks, street fairs, farmers markets, and so on. Here in Vieques,
we have all of those things with a Puerto Rican flair. July is the month of
parties. There are several holidays during the month, both federal (US) and
state (PR) that allow for most of the weekends to be three day events. The
schools on the island are in recess and the pomp and circumstance of June with
graduations, proms and weddings is over, so families have the time to visit, and
visit Vieques they do.
The fourth of July is as big a celebration weekend here on the island as
anywhere in the States. Families load up and head to the beach with every
imaginable beach toy, from snorkel gear to hammocks. Barbeque is most often
roast pork with sides of macaroni salad, rice and beans, but there is the
occasional whiff of dogs and burgers in the air. Formal fireworks are not as
often a part of the celebration due to location constraints and whether or not
the island has received sufficient rain to make them safe. Occasionally, the El
Conquistador Hotel in Fajardo will sponsor some fireworks which can be seen from
the deck of the Mar Azul in town.
The premier event in Vieques in July is Patronales. Patronales is
traditionally the time when local people celebrate the patron saint of their
community. Each of the 78 municipalities in Puerto Rico has its own Patron
Saint. Technically, the Patronales celebration in Vieques is supposed to be in
December of each year, celebrating the Immaculate Conception. However, somewhere
along the way, the celebration became less religious and more of a reason to
hold a party lasting several days.
The municipality hosts the party. The length and breadth of the celebration is
dependent on funding. The most lavish Patronales parties are in election
years for obvious reasons. This is an election year, so there you have it.
The festival begins on the 16th and continues through the 20th. Also, this year,
it is being held in the Pueblo (Isabel Segunda) for the first in time in about
five years.
Historically, the town square has been the site of most Patronales
celebrations. Several years ago, the plaza began undergoing a complete facelift,
and, like most things in the islands, the actual completion date was several
years removed from the estimated one. Patronales was relocated to Sun
Bay, the public beach on the south side of the island. While the Sun Bay
location allowed for better parking, more space for vendors, staging and
dancing, it certainly did not have the same atmosphere as a town based party.
Patronales is a carnival, street fair and concert all rolled into one. As
you stroll around the plaza and the surrounding streets you will find carnival
rides for the smaller children and ring toss games for winning the stuffed
animal that is way too big to fit in your car. There are some carousel horse
racing booths for a taste of gambling. It looks like a tiny merry-go-round and
the horses go round and round, and when it stops the horse in the lead is the
winner. There are booths set up by local craftsmen who offer their wares for
sale. There are endless food vendors offering choices from pastillos,
which are deep-fried meat pies, to arepas, which are fried dough, to
pinchos which are grilled meat on a stick, (usually chicken) to salads of
pulpo (octopus) and carrucho (conch). Even though liquor licensing
laws are fairly strict, there is a beer booth or ten on every corner. There are
no worries about open container law as long as you stay within the festival’s
perimeter.
Later in the evening, the entertainment begins. Generally, there are local
entertainers and school groups that perform songs, traditional Puerto Rican
dances and stand up comedy routines. The mayor and other municipal officials
will often speak to their constituents and many civic groups use the festival as
a venue to present awards to members of the community, and to announce
scholarships to soon to be college students. There is at least one parade
featuring local children in native dress. Late, late in the evening, the music
begins in earnest. Bands from the main island, the Dominican Republic, and the
United States take the stage for hours of dancing. In fact, it is not unusual
for the sun to be coming up when the last revelers make their way home.
The Fiesta de Patronales is an incredible party that combines the current
and the traditional music of Puerto Rico. The sidewalks are full of older
couples decked out in ruffled skirts on the women, and guyaberas (dress shirts)
and fedoras on the men, dancing salsa with flushed faces and broad smiles. The
respect of the younger people is evident as they defer to the elders and clap
enthusiastically at the end of each song.
Just when you think you have survived five days of dancing and eating, Monday
the 21st rolls around with Luis Munoz Rivera Day. Munoz Rivera is
heralded as the father of the commonwealth status of Puerto Rico. He advocated a
free association with the United States and was directly responsible for the
Jones-Shafroth Act that granted US citizenship to Puerto Ricans. On Friday the
25th, we celebrate Constitution Day, the day the current Constitution of
Puerto Rico was signed and ratified by Congress. And then……on Monday the 28th,
we celebrate Jose C. Barbosa Day. Barbosa was the first US educated
doctor to practice in Puerto Rico and formed the pro-statehood Republican Party
in 1899, after Puerto Rico became a territory of the United States following the
Spanish American War. And then…… thankfully, it is August.
While the party hearty atmosphere of July in Vieques sounds completely inviting,
and it is, it does bring some challenges to vacationing and day to day living.
But being informed is forearmed, and with a little thought and preparation you
can enjoy a hassle free stay on Vieques.
Transportation to the island during July is often times inadequate for the
numbers of people traveling. Generally, because of the holidays, Fridays and
Mondays are heavy travel days and can mean full ferries and planes. For plane
travel from Fajardo, call Vieques Air Link’s Fajardo desk at
787-863-3020. Vieques Air Link is a tremendous local airline. They will often
add extra planes to handle the numbers of travelers. Remember, the planes hold
about 12 people, so do the math. If your plan is go to Vieques by boat, get to
the ferry dock early and be prepared to wait. Be sure to get in line for the
Vieques window at the ticket office. The Culebra window will be open before
Vieques one because of the ferry times, don’t get confused!! There are two gates
for Vieques in the terminal. One is for senior citizens, handicapped people and
people traveling with very small children. The other gate says it is for Vieques
residents. That is the gate you want to wait at. If you get confused, just smile
and ask someone. If you get bumped from an earlier boat, there are a few
cafeterias near the dock that serve cold beer and sandwiches. You can also grab
a publico and run up to Lolita’s restaurant on Route 3 for a Margarita.
Ask for the driver’s business card and ask that he return for you. They will.
On Vieques, we feel the effects of the transportation situation without leaving
the island. Everything we have from gasoline to pork chops comes over on the
cargo ferry. The cargo ferry does not run on holidays, so in July we lose
several days of deliveries. It takes just a bit of planning to get the supplies
you need and there are a few tricks to make things easier.
A car with half a tank of gas is empty. While 7th grade math has taught you this
is impossible, believe me, it is true. If you have less than a half a tank, then
you have to wait in a gas line. If you start thinking about getting gas while
you still have gas, you can zip in when the lines are short and drive on by when
they are long. Always keep your grocery list handy. While vegetables and meats
are mostly available at the twp larger grocery stores and the vegetable truck,
other items like coffee, juice and milk are available at the smaller colmados
(corner groceries). It is much easier to stop at one of them for those items.
This pares down the list of items you need to get at the larger stores, making
it easier and quicker to shop. Also, shop often. Something you need may not be
there in the morning, but will have arrived by 5pm.
If all else fails, go for ice cream. Señor Frosty has opened on the
Maleçon in Esperanza. He serves soft serve and a few flavors of hand dipped. He
is generally open on the weekends. You can also go to Chicken King in
Florida, across from Nales Hardware store. They have at least 10 different
flavors and some pretty awesome fried chicken, 787-741-5464, and are open every
day. In town, Scoops, 787-741-5555, offers many flavors of ice cream,
along with pizzas, subs and salads and also is open everyday. Also, there are
ice cream trucks that slowly cruise the barrio streets, playing music. The
ice cream offered is usually homemade from local fruits. There are also sherbet
style ices for the calorie conscious.
Dust off your dancing shoes and we’ll see you at Patronales.
Thanks for reading!
Janie
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