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The New York Times -
Travel
A child leaps off an old pier in the main
town of Esperanza.
Laura Magruder for The New York Times
36 Hours in Vieques
By HUGH RYAN
Published: February 21, 2010
THE mascot of Vieques seems to be the coquí, a tiny frog whose image adorns
everything from T-shirts to hot sauce bottles. Yet, given the island’s rapid
metamorphosis from Navy testing ground to upscale beach resort, perhaps a
tropical butterfly would be better suited. Since the United States Navy ceased
military operations in 2003, this small island just off the east coast of
mainland Puerto Rico has seen a boom in restaurants, galleries and hotels,
including a new W resort expected next month. It’s a testament to the island’s
natural beauty, with its white-sand beaches, coral reefs and bioluminescent bay.
Friday
4 p.m.
1) LIFE’S A BEACH
Vieques has spent the last year improving many of its beaches; access to some
were in shambles when the Navy left. Red Beach, along a wide-mouthed cove on the
island’s warmer Caribbean side, reopened last December, though it has since
temporarily closed for road work, and features open-walled wooden cabanas and
ample parking. The beach gets a little crowded in the afternoons but in the
evenings the crowds are gone, and it has some of the clearest azure blue water
on the island — and terrific snorkeling along the eastern end.
7 p.m.
2) TROPICAL FLAVORS
Dinner in the Caribbean should be about three things: local seafood, fresh air
and good drinks. The recently opened Cantina La Reina (351 Calle Antonio G.
Mellado; 787-741-2700; cantina-lareina.com) in Isabel Segunda has all three.
Decorated with Catholic iconography, posters of Mexican revolutionaries and old
photos of banditos, La Reina may make you forget what country you’re in — until
you take a bite of the fresh catch with mango salsa (market price) or the
Baja-style shrimp tacos ($18). The rooftop patio also offers fantastic views.
Dinner can be a little slow, like the general pace of life on the island. As the
bumper stickers say, “What’s the hurry? You are in Vieques.”
10 p.m.
3) FROM BUNKER TO CLUB
Another sign of how fast things have changed? A decade ago, the old naval base
near Green Beach was home to military bunkers. One of those bunkers was recently
transformed into the 10,000-square-foot Club Tumby (Antigua Base Naval, Barrio
Mosquito; 787-399-7142; clubtumby.com). The mega-disco, which plays bachata,
salsa, bomba, merengue and reggaetón, draws local 20-somethings and visitors
almost literally to the middle of nowhere.
Saturday
9 a.m.
4) BEACHCOMBING
Beaches on the Atlantic side of Vieques are often overlooked — after all, no one
talks about going to an “Atlantic island” for vacation. But Glass Beach, a tiny
stretch of sand at the end of Calle Regimientio 65 de la Infanteria, has a
special attraction: perfectly smooth stones, seashells and sea glass — hence the
name. Local jewelry makers come to gather supplies. Despite the incessant
construction along the waterfront, it’s a great place to pick up a souvenir.
Noon
5) SCENE BY THE SEA
Calle Flamboyán in Esperanza is also called the Malecón, Spanish for seafront.
The Caribbean laps right up against the street’s rampart, which on Saturday
afternoons is the site of a continuously changing market. Artists sell jewelry
and clothing, farmers sell organic produce, and food carts grill spicy kebabs of
shrimp and chicken ($3). For a spicy cocoa or a coffee spiked with rum ($6),
stop by the new Window Cafe, a coffee stand set into the side of Lazy Jack’s bar
(61 Calle Orquideas; 787-741-1447; www.lazyjacksvieques.com). With a few outdoor
tables, it’s also a great place for people watching.
1 p.m.
6) SEE TURTLES
The waters off Vieques are home to aquatic wonders, including manatees,
dolphins, eagle rays, nurse sharks, barracuda and sea turtles, which come up on
the beaches to lay their eggs in January and February. A number of companies
offer two-hour snorkeling trips around Cayo Afuera, a small scrub island with a
large coral reef on its eastern side. A reliable outfitter is Abe’s Snorkeling
(787-741-2134; abessnorkeling.com), which offers a $35 tour that includes kayak
and snorkeling equipment and knowledgeable guides. If you prefer to go on your
own, pick up a $15 mask from Black Beard Sports (101 Calle Muñoz Rivera;
787-741-1892; blackbeardsports.com), a local emporium that can offer helpful
tips on good diving spots.
4 p.m.
7) TROPICAL FOREST RUINS
Channel your Tomb Raider fantasies by exploring the ruins of Central Playa
Grande, one of the 19th-century sugar plantations that once dominated Vieques. A
dozen stone and brick ruins lie hidden in the forest, obscured by ceiba trees
and bougainvillea vines. A new two-lane steel bridge is expected to open later
this winter and provide a quicker route. But for the moment, the bumpy journey
goes over rutted roads and dirt paths. The adventurous — and those with
four-wheel drive — can explore on their own. Look for a small sign that reads
“Sleeping giant, witness to our history,” marking the trailhead off PR-201.
Alternatively, the Vieques Conservation and Historical Trust (138 Calle
Flamboyán; 787-741-8850; vcht.com) runs tours for $30. You can even visit on
horseback with Elizabeth from Expediciones en Bieque (787-435-0073;
naturalvieques.com) for $65.
8 p.m.
8) FRESH CATCHES
In much of Puerto Rico, “fried” seems to be the most popular food group. For
more refined dining, try El Quenepo in Esperanza (148 Calle Flamboyán;
787-741-1215), among the new wave of tablecloth-and-candlelit restaurants on the
island. It elevates native Caribbean ingredients like breadfruit, calabaza
squash and limón to a higher culinary plane. Try the line-caught dorado, grilled
and wrapped in pancetta and served over a seafood risotto ($23). The charming
owners, Scott and Kate Cole, are from North Carolina.
10 p.m.
9) SWIMMING WITH STARS
The otherwordly bioluminescent bay on the Caribbean side of the island lives up
to its reputation. But until recently, the most intimate way of getting close up
to this magical mass of glowing microorganisms was to strip down to your
swimming suit and get wet. For a more civilized approach, take a kayak tour with
Vieques Adventures (787-692-9162; viequesadventures.com), which just introduced
a new fleet of translucent kayaks. Tours start at $35 a person. Whomever you go
with, make sure they’re licensed. Portions of the license fees go to Puerto
Rico’s Department of Natural Resources, to protect the wondrous ecosystem.
Sunday
9:30 a.m.
10) DOWNWARD DOGGY-PADDLE
What better place to do your sun salutations than on the white sands of Sun Bay?
Local yogi MariAngeles (787-435-7510) leads 90-minute Kundalini-style classes on
the eastern end of the beach for $15. Call ahead to confirm or bring a mat and
do it on your own.
11 a.m.
11) BOOTS, NOT FLIP-FLOPS
Cars, horses, scooters, skateboards — Vieques seems to discourage walking. But
for hiking enthusiasts, there is hope still. On the western edge of Sun Bay, the
Caribbean cove right outside the town of Esperanza on PR-997, is a land bridge
that leads to Cayo de Tierra, a wooded atoll a quarter mile off the coast of
Vieques. Small trails crisscross the island, which is uninhabited except for
birds, geckos and the occasional iguana. From the rocky promontory, you get a
breathtaking view of Vieques, and manatees have been known to splash in the
shallow waters below.
1 p.m.
12) ART WITH A HEART
For an island with such beauty, it’s no surprise that there is a strong art
scene, mostly of pastoral landscapes, with a number of galleries catering to
tourists and locals alike. Among the newest is Deda Galeria de Arte
(Intersection of Calle Muñoz Rivera and Calle Carlos Lebron; 787-741-1297;
dedaonline.com), run by Aleksandar Janjic, a Serbian artist who trained in
ceramics at the University of Belgrade. The raw, white-walled space features
island artists, including his own digitally manipulated photographs of local
flora and fauna. Open weekdays, 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. or call for an appointment. A
new show, put up on Valentine’s Day, will benefit the relief effort in nearby
Haiti.
IF YOU GO
Flights to Vieques require a connection in San Juan. Numerous airlines including
American, Continental and JetBlue fly nonstop to San Juan from New York City,
with fares starting at $300, according to a recent search. From San Juan,
several small carriers including Vieques Air Link (888-901-9247;
vieques-island.com/val) offer connecting puddle jumpers starting at $90. There
is also a two-hour ferry from the town of Fajardo, but it can be crowded and
noisy; though the ferry is only $2, the taxi to Fajardo can be as much as $80.
A rental car is a must and should be booked weeks in advance during the high
season. Maritza’s Car Rental (787-741-0078) is one of the friendliest, and will
meet you at the airport. Call ahead, and specify that you want a car with
air-conditioning and four-wheel drive.
The Hix Island House (787-741-2302; hixislandhouse.com) is situated on 13 acres
of Vieques wilderness. The 13 apartments are spread out over four elegant
buildings, with terrific views, outdoors showers, kitchens and a large shared
pool. In 2009, a yoga pavilion with daily classes was added. Rates start at $195
in the high season.
Next month, the W Retreat & Spa (State Road 200; 954-624-1768; whotels.com/vieques)
is expected to open on the northwest side of the island, featuring a gym, spa
and a restaurant by Alain Ducasse. Rooms begin at $389.
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