I drove down to Key West last month for a quick visit before I
fly back to Vieques for the season. I try to get down there once
a year to fish my old stomping grounds, check out what’s new,
and remind myself why I don’t live there anymore.
Key West is one of the most unique places in the United States.
They call it the American Caribbean even though it’s really
located in the North Atlantic. No matter what, it’s still as
close as you can get to the real thing without jumping on a boat
or plane. The Chamber of Commerce has done an excellent job over
the years of selling this island to the party crowd and the once
sleepy little fishing village is now a 24/7version of Mardi
Gras.
Key West can also be one of the most expensive places you’ll
ever visit. It’s nearly impossible to find a decent place to
stay for under $100, any time of year. This is one of the
reasons that Key West’s tourism is on a serious decline
recently.
Five years ago, when real estate prices went through the roof, a
lot of hotel owners converted their properties into condos in
the hopes of selling these units for huge profits.
Unfortunately, the real estate bubble popped loudly and the town
found itself with fewer rooms for the tourists that wanted them.
Since demand exceeded supply, the places that still had rooms
available jacked up their prices beyond what the average Joe
could pay. High dollar resorts became the norm for the island
even though Key West is far from a destination like Anguilla or
St. Barts.
It is still a gorgeous island that needs to be reminded of its
deeply seated place in American history; something it should be
aggressively promoting. The 18th and 19th century guest houses
in Old Town are among the most beautiful in the country. The
owners of these places have done a great job preserving them but
you’ll pay for the privilege of staying there. Spending at least
$200 per night is not uncommon.
The restaurants on Key West are also pricey as hell but some of
the best anywhere. If you’re into great food and don’t mind
paying for it, a week dining in the Keys won’t be enough. New
places are always popping up and most are real prize winners. At
the very least, you won’t have any problem finding a perfectly
served fillet of grouper or mahi anywhere on Upper Duval Street.
Lower Duval is another story altogether. If you have kids or
strong religious convictions, stay as far away from this area,
and especially the 200 Block, as possible. When I first moved to
Key West I was in my early 20’s, and Duval Street was Heaven on
Earth. Back then I had an indestructible liver and no sense of
embarrassment. Times have really changed. Now I look at Lower
Duval as a perverted zoo where you can’t even get a cheap drink
anymore. Even the strippers look ugly to me these days. If you
want to pay $4 for a lukewarm beer and hear someone mangle
“Brown Eyed Girl,“ you’ll feel right at home.
Despite all of that I still have a big soft spot for Key West.
Spending the last few years away from it has made me appreciate
and miss the island a little more than I realized. The fishing
opportunities in the Keys are still some of the best in the
world and booking a great guide like my buddy Capt. Mike
Bartlett is the best money you’ll ever spend. A day of
bonefishing with him will probably add five years to your life.
And hitting the bars on Lower Duval Street for a night isn‘t
really all that bad. I look at it like eating a couple of greasy
cheeseburgers grilled up on the beach. Not fatal in moderation
and better for you than the doctors will ever admit.
I said goodbye to Key West several years ago and don’t regret it
for a minute. Vieques had the two things I was most looking for
in a new place to live; affordable real estate and miles of
uncrowded bonefish flats. Things are much slower these days but
the phone is still ringing and the tourists still need to go
fishing.
Comparing Vieques and Key West is actually a tough thing to do.
They’re at the top of the list of my favorite places on Earth,
but they got there in very different ways and for very different
reasons. If I had the means (and I definitely don’t,) I’d own
homes on both islands. Until that day, I’ll be happy enough as a
resident of Vieques and a tourist on Key West.
Capt. Gregg McKee,
WildFly Charters
