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Vieques- December 2005
Living and Working in Vieques..
I take it all back Vieques is perfect. The melancholy, hazy days of summer and fall are memory and the crisp, electrifying days of winter are here.
One doesnt have to compare Vieques with anyplace else it is an objective reality Vieques is perfect. In summer, the air is thick, but diffuse. Now, it envelops one, it moves right along with you as you do the marketing, or get gas. You are always aware of the private cocoon in which you are enveloped. Diving into the water, cooler water now, you know immediately you have found the right place. The combination of the dry, soft breeze and the succulent seduction of the water is unbeatable. You do not need a lover in Vieques; these elements combine to cause a spontaneous generation of electrolytes which bring new meaning to shock and awe.
Watching the tourists arrive, looking pale and confused, I realize that there are some things you should know. In no particular order:
Build your tan slowly, whether you have 5 days or two weeks, build it day by day, a little at a time.
There is no violent crime in Vieques. You need not fear anyone snatching a chain from your neck or stealing you purse.
Tip well. Even if you are not a good tipper. Your waitress one night at a particular restaurant may be your waitress the next night at a different restaurant. Same goes for bartenders
The best place to run is on the old Navy pier. Thats the long strip you see flying in. It is always cool there and you can run with the breeze all day long without getting hot.
Never beep your horn. Even if you are stuck behind two cars which have drivers chattering to each other, dont beep. That is a holdover from the days before telephones were common.
Your cell phone is likely to work here.
Do not buy untitled land, or any land, from a local unless you have an attorney look at the deed and contract first.. Maybe its a good buy, but maybe you will spend a lot of time in court while a judge decides to whom it really belongs.
You do not have to go to expensive restaurants. There are 9000 residents of Vieques. Most of us eat in most of the time. We shop at Morales, we do not import exotic foodstuffs and survive quite well.
If you get a flat tire, and you have a cell phone, do not call the police. They dont care about your flat tire. However, it is very likely that someone will stop before long and help you out. Years ago, I got a flat tire in front of a bodega where the guys were playing dominos. I had no jack; about fifteen of them came down and lifted up my car so the tire could be changed. This is emblematic of Vieques. The people here are friendly and helpful.
Try and speak Spanish, even broken Spanish shows you are making an effort
Go to Phosphorescent Bay (Bio Bay). Just go. It is an experience you will never forget
If you are looking for love, well, you probably came to the wrong place. We do have a few people who met and married here, but they live here. Take all romantic gestures with the proverbial gain of salt. You will probably be forgotten as soon as you leave. Which is not to say you cant have some fun?
If you wake up and it is raining, dont panic. It often rains in the early morning in winter. Anyway, the rain is as soft as tears, so go for a walk.
If there is a gas line, dont get angry. Experience it.
Try the veggie truck just outside of Isabel Segunda for fruit and vegetables.
Pick flowers to take to your room and put in a glass of water
Dont even try and understand the politics. If anyone tells you they know (A) when houses will be titled (B) when the golf course is going to be built or (C) fast food restaurants are right around the corner you can be sure they do not know what they are talking about.
You dont need a jacket, although a sweater might come in handy at night
Even though it is cooler now, always take a bottle of water with you as you go through the day
If I think of more stuff, Ill let you know. In the meanwhile, have a great time in this most perfect of all small islands.Happy Holidays,
Sheila
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Webmaster's Note * Sheila has many hats and is Co-owner of Crow's Nest Realty with Eli Belendez.
Sheila can be reached for a brochure through her web page at http://www.crowsnestrealty.com